Sushi was exotic and sophisticated when I first had it in Winnipeg. I loved watching the yuppie satire
The New Age, and when Wasabi opened up in Corydon Village I finally got a taste of the lifestyle that had been denied me through an accident of geography. Later, after a month in Japan, sushi was as common place, and nothing more than a healthier alternative to McDonalds.
Reading
The Zen of Fish by Trevor Corson was an eye opener. I've eaten a lot of sushi, but I didn't know how little I knew about the subject until I read this book. It's a history of sushi from it's beginnings in Asia, up to it's present day incarnation in America.
Corson deftly weaves together three different narratives. The first strand follows the story of a young woman named Kate as she studies at the California Sushi Academy. The second thread is a history of sushi in Japan and America. The final and perhaps the most fascinating filament in this tapestry explores the biology of the fish that are served in sushi restaurants.
The irreverent attitude that Corson possesses makes him a very congenial author. Consider the following passage:
Kate had no interest in eating an undulating clam that looked like a penis, but under Zoran's eye she slice a tiny corner off one of her nigiri. It felt like chewing on a rubber band. Zoran wathced her. She knew he was waiting for her to spit it out. She swallowed.
Gags like that put the book in the same category as Morgan Spurlock's documentaries. Like Spurlock, Corson educates his readers while carefully avoiding the tone of a know-it-all, professional scold like Michael Moore.
I'll think twice about ordering salmon after learning about all the nasty parasites that live inside them, but I'll feel less guilty about ordering a California roll now that I've learned that it avocado was originally used as a substitute for tuna in an American sushi bar that was patronized mainly by recent Japanese immigrants.
Corson may have inadvertantly stumbled into Eric Schlosser territory when he chronicles the decline in hygiene and proper training amongst sushi chefs in America. Since the demand for sushi is so high in the USA, there has been an unfortunate decline standards as restaurants and caterers scramble to fill positions because of demand.
It's a shame that such a wonderfully social dining experience is being put at risk by potentially poor quality control. Regardless of the future of sushi in North America, this book did bring back fond memories of farewell dinners in Japan and Canada.
Daisuke, my good friend in Osaka showed me what authentic sushi blended with a contemporary approach was like, and Ashley, Barbara, Dora, and Gord gave me a warm send off on a very cold winter night over sushi, sashimi, and tempura. May all your nigiri and sashimi be only the best parts of the sakana, and if you give this book a try, I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.
Labels: Books, The Zen of Fish, Trevor Corson